Brandy is a broad word for a spirit distilled from wine or other fermented fruit juice, then aged. Cognac and Armagnac are two famous French versions, and a rounder, sweeter style from Spain makes a third. Each suits a different kind of evening.

First, what is the difference?

Cognac comes from the Cognac region in western France. It is usually made from white grapes (mostly Ugni Blanc), distilled twice in copper pot stills and aged in oak. It tends to be smooth, floral and fruity.

Armagnac comes from Gascony, in the south-west of France, and is generally the more rustic of the two. Many Armagnacs are distilled once in a column still, which leaves more character in the spirit: prune, spice, wood and a bit of earth. Some are sold by vintage year.

Both use the same age labels. VS is the youngest, VSOP is older and rounder, and XO is the oldest of the standard grades, aged ten years or more in Cognac.

Evening one: Cognac, easy and bright

Start with a VS or VSOP Cognac. It is lively enough to mix and gentle enough to sip.

  • Pour it: long and cold. About 40 ml Cognac over ice, topped with tonic water or ginger ale, with a strip of lemon peel.
  • Eat with it: salted almonds, a slice of apple tart, or a few slices of firm cheese such as ComtĂ©.

Evening two: Armagnac, slow and grown-up

Choose an Armagnac when you want to sit still for a while. Pour a small measure into a tulip-shaped glass and give it a minute.

  • Pour it: neat, about 30 ml. A few drops of water can open up the aroma.
  • Eat with it: dark chocolate, prunes or dried figs. The brandy's dried-fruit notes line up with them.

Evening three: a rounder, sweeter bottle

Spanish brandy from Jerez is aged in casks that once held sherry, so it is softer and sweeter, with raisin, caramel and toasted nuts. It is the easiest of the three to love after dinner.

  • Pour it: over one large ice cube, or neat if the room is cool.
  • Eat with it: a pudding with caramel, a slice of fruitcake, or just a square of milk chocolate.

Two small tips for any brandy

  1. Skip the big, warming swirl. Hold the glass, tilt it gently and smell it before you sip. Strong spirit can hide the delicate notes.
  2. Pour less than you think. A small measure, sipped slowly, tastes better than a big one hurried.

General descriptions of brandy styles, not a guide to any single brand. Rules and age labels differ by region. Please drink responsibly.