Bitter liqueurs scare people off because they lump them together. They are not all the same, and the range is huge. Here is a five-step meter, from gentle to fierce, so you can start where it feels friendly.

A note before we climb: bitterness in these drinks comes from roots, barks, herbs and peels. It stimulates the appetite, which is why they are classic before dinner or after dinner. The names below are examples of each style, and recipes differ between producers.

  1. 1. Bright and gentle

    Style: orange bitter aperitif, such as Aperol.

    Sweet orange first, bitterness in the background. The friendliest way in. Try it: long, with sparkling wine and soda, over ice.

  2. 2. Sweet and caramelly

    Style: sweet Italian amaro, such as Averna.

    Orange peel, caramel and herbs, with a soft bitter finish. Try it: on one big ice cube after dinner, or over vanilla ice cream.

  3. 3. Earthy and herbal

    Style: artichoke-based amaro, such as Cynar.

    Savory, a little vegetal, slightly sweet. Surprisingly good. Try it: with soda and an orange slice, or in place of one of the parts in a Negroni.

  4. 4. Bold and bitter

    Style: classic red bitter, such as Campari.

    Grapefruit peel, herbs and a firm bitter edge. This is the heart of a Negroni. Try it: a Negroni, or with soda and a slice of orange.

  5. 5. Fierce and medicinal

    Style: intensely bitter, minty amaro, such as Fernet.

    Mint, menthol, spice and deep bitterness. Loved by some, hated by others. Try it: a small measure, very cold, after a big meal.

How to climb the meter

  1. Start at level 1 or 2 and drink it long, with soda and ice, so bitterness feels like a garnish, not a punch.
  2. After a week, try level 3 in a simple drink such as a spritz made with soda.
  3. When you like that, try a Negroni. Level 4 will feel like an old friend.
  4. Level 5 is optional. Some people never go there, and that is fine.

Why they are served this way

Bitter drinks are traditionally served before a meal to wake up the appetite, or after to settle a heavy one. Food softens bitterness, so a salty snack or a piece of dark chocolate helps while you get used to it.

Brand names are examples of styles, not recommendations. Please drink responsibly.